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Mounting a tub isn't exactly brain surgery, but it does call for solid plumbing, woodworking, as well as in some cases, tiling skills. Changing an old bathtub with a brand-new one is likewise a reasonably challenging task. If the old tub is conveniently available, the project can relocate immediately; if you have to open up a wall to eliminate the old bathtub and place the brand-new tub, the job is a lot harder. In either situation, the project is within a residence handyman's abilities, although you will need an assistant to vacate the old tub and embeded in the brand-new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job as well as are comfortable attempting it. As opposed to working with a professional to take control of a halfway-completed project, it is far better to think about using one prior to you start. Possibilities are you might need a professional plumber to make tube links.
This post will aid you mount a new bath tub in your washroom if you have currently bought a new bathtub as well as do not need to transform the plan of your previous water supply pipelines.
Your tools as well as product checklist need to comprise the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to change old faucets with brand-new ones as a part of your installation, after that the first thing you need to do is separate the water supply. After doing so, activate the taps to drain any kind of water remaining in the system. The procedure of getting rid of the existing faucets can be quite bothersome due to the restricted gain access to that is frequently the situation.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet device to reverse the nut that attaches the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a fabric all set for the continuing to be water that will certainly originate from the pipelines. When the supply pipes have been removed, make use of the same device to loosen up the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will require to stop the single faucets from transforming during this procedure. When the faucets have been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will certainly need to be cleaned of any old securing substance.
Before proceeding to fit the new taps, contrast the pipe links on the old taps to the brand-new faucets. If the old faucets are longer than the brand-new taps, after that a shank adapter is needed for the new faucets to fit.
Suitable New Touches
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, after that you will need a plastic adapter to avoid damages to the thread. One end of the port fits on the plastic tail of the faucet and the various other end supplies a link to the existing supply pipelines.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will require minimizing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the conventional 15mm supply pipe.
Next, position the tap in the installing hole in the bath/basin making sure that the washing machines are in location between the tap and the sink. Secure the faucet in position with the supplier given backnut. When the tap is securely in position, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be linked by using corrugated copper piping or with normal faucet ports. The previous type ought to be linked to the faucet ends initially, tightening just by hand. The supply pipes can later on be connected to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been linked.
Installing the Bathtub
Using the two wood boards under its feet, put the bath tub in the needed position. The wooden boards are helpful in evenly spreading the weight of the bath tub over the area of the boards rather than concentrating all the weight onto four small points.
The next objective is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by inspecting the level as well as changing the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads degree.
To set up taps, fit the bottom of the outermost versatile tap port to the suitable supply pipe by making a compression join; after that do the very same for the various other faucet.
Turn on the water and also inspect all joints and brand-new pipework for leakages and tighten them if necessary. Fill up the bathtub and additionally inspect the overflow outlet as well as the regular outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, repair the bath paneling as defined in the maker's instruction manual. Tiling as well as securing around the bathtub ought to wait until the bath tub has actually been used at the very least when as this will settle it right into its final setting.
Planning for the Installment
First of all, the supporting frame provided with the bathroom should be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer's guidelines. Next, fit the taps or mixer to the tub. When suitable the tap block, it is important to ensure that if the tap includes a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bathroom as well as the faucets. On a plastic bath, it is also reasonable to fit a sustaining plate under the taps unit to stop pressure on the bathtub.
Fit the adaptable faucet ports to the bottom of both faucets utilizing 2 nuts and olives (sometimes provided with the tub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet opening, and after that pass the outlet through the hole in the bathroom. Utilize the nut supplied by the producer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit completion of the versatile overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make certain you use all of the supplied washers.
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bath should now prepare to be fitted in its final position.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bath fulfills the ceramic tile, it is required to secure the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is very important as the fitting can relocate enough to split a rigid seal, creating the water to penetrate the wall surface between the bathroom and the tiling, bring about problems with wetness and possible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can select from a range of coloured sealers to blend in your fixtures as well as installations. They are marketed in tubes as well as cartridges, and also are capable of securing spaces up to a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to load, you can fill it with twists of drenched paper or soft rope. Keep in mind to always fill up the tub with water before sealing, to permit the movement experienced when the bathtub remains in usage. The sealer can split rather very early if you do not take into account this activity prior to securing.
Additionally, ceramic coving or quadrant floor tiles can be utilized to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also reduce to dimension, are additionally quickly available on the marketplace. It is a good idea to fit the tiles making use of water-resistant or waterproof sticky as well as cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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